"Will my house smell like spray foam?"
During spraying, yes, there is a strong chemical odor, which is why the U.S. EPA says occupants and other trades should leave the home while spray polyurethane foam is installed. The EPA advises staying out until the foam has finished curing and the house has been ventilated and cleaned. It notes that some manufacturers recommend about 24 hours for professional two-component foam before re-occupying, but the right time depends on the exact product, so ask your installer for the manufacturer's guidance before you book a date.
A smell that hangs on after the re-entry time is not something you should just live with. The EPA's advice for continuing odors is to call the contractor first to confirm the correct procedures and clean-up were followed, and if that does not resolve it, contact your state consumer protection office or the contractor licensing board. A good installer will want to come back and look.
"My attic is still hot after spray foam"
This is one of the most common worries, and it usually comes from expecting the attic to feel like the living room. When foam is sprayed on the underside of the roof deck, the attic becomes part of the home's insulated envelope instead of an outdoor-temperature space, so it should feel far milder than a vented Princeton attic in July. But unless the design also adds conditioned air to the attic, it is not air-conditioned living space, and the foam surface itself can feel warm to the touch on a sunny afternoon.
If the attic still feels like an oven, the usual suspects are gaps the foam missed (gable ends, soffits, around the attic hatch or chimney chase), old vents that were never closed off, foam that is thinner than promised in some spots, or leaky ductwork. Ask the installer to walk the attic with you and show the thickness in several places.
"Upstairs is still hot even after the attic was foamed"
Spray foam fixes heat coming through the roof, but a hot upstairs can also come from too little supply air, a weak return, leaky ducts, west-facing windows or knee walls that were never insulated. Princeton is in Collin County, which the energy code puts in climate zone 3A (warm and humid), so long cooling seasons expose every weak spot. A good contractor will ask which rooms are hot and when, not just measure the attic.
"Do you have to pull out my old insulation first?"
It depends on where the foam goes. If the roof deck is being foamed so the attic joins the conditioned space, the old insulation on the attic floor is often removed so the attic and the house can share the same air. If foam is going into walls or a crawl space, the existing attic insulation may stay. Ask each contractor whether removal is included in the quote or listed separately, so you are comparing the same job.
"Will spray foam hide a roof leak?"
Foam on the roof deck can make a small leak harder to spot, which is why it is worth fixing known leaks and getting any roof questions answered before foam goes in. If your roof is under a warranty, ask your roofer or the shingle manufacturer how foam on the deck affects it, and get the answer in writing.
Words to use when you call (so you get a useful answer)
You don't need the technical terms. Tell the installer things like:
- "The upstairs bedrooms get hot every afternoon."
- "I smell something in the attic and I'm not sure what it is."
- "My electric bill jumps every summer."
- "My metal shop drips with condensation."
- "I want to keep the attic cooler because the AC unit and ducts are up there."
Before anyone sprays, ask
- Which foam product is going where, and how thick will it be?
- How long should my family and pets stay out, and what ventilation will you run?
- What happens to the existing attic vents and the old insulation?
- Which thermal or ignition barrier does my attic need, and is it included?
- Who do I call if I notice an odor after we move back in?
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Sources checked 2026-11-02: EPA: vacate and safe re-entry time for spray polyurethane foam; IRC Table N1101.7 climate zones by county (UpCodes).